Morris Products LED Dimmable Under Cabinet Lighting - Color Tunable, Driverless Technology - 7 LED 11W 522 Lumens 24" Length - White Steel Housing - Perfect for Kitchen Countertops, Work Surfaces & Home Office Task Lighting (Model 71264)

I purchased two of these lamps in 12" as well as an 18" and a 24" unit. The following review covers each of these lamp models, as they are all constructed the same and come with the same hardware, etc.I've been looking long and hard at under cabinet LED lights that are dimmable. In our home, I have been replacing all the lighting with more energy efficient options and I was more than ready to retire our previous under cabinet lights, halogen 'pucks', due to their inefficiency as well as all the heat they put out.I chose the Morris Products LED lights after looking at all the options available in the big box home improvement stores as well as in our local electrical supply businesses. I purchased and returned several LED lights because I found them to be cheaply made, were poorly dimming, and they sometimes came with very cheap mounting hardware. I also have rejected several options I found because they did not easily accommodate direct wiring. These Morris units are well made: a metal housing, quality fit and finish.After determining that none of the under cabinet LED lamps I found locally would fulfill our needs, I started looking online for options. I chose the Morris lamps based on their very reasonable price, very good dimming range, and my not needing to purchase any additional 'add ons' for installing it, as several of the online options I found required purchasing additional parts for connection/installation. These Morris units come complete with all that's needed for either direct wiring or plug-in installation.The installation was very straightforward. I mounted the lights under the kitchen cabinets on a cut-to-fit panel that I constructed to fit under each of the cabinets. I installed 3/4" x 3/4" strips of wood along the inside bottom of each cabinet so that I could mount the cut-to-fit panels under each cabinet with countersunk screws (I choose stainless steel screws for their looks and resistance to rust, etc.).Next I mounted the lights onto the panels. I wanted the installation of my daisy-chained LED lamps to show as little wiring as possible and I accomplished this by cutting a hole the diameter of the connecting wires in my cut-to-fit panels. I also wanted the holes I drilled in these panels for the interconnect wiring to be as small as possible (i.e. the hole diameter to accommodate the wiring is much smaller than the hole size one needs to accommodate the size of the actual interconnects (approx 1/2" wide). To accomplish this (and also to eliminate any excess wiring) I simply cut the supplied interconnecting cables where needed, then fed the cable through holes I drilled in the panels, and spliced them so that I had the necessary connector at each end without having to drill 1/2" sized holes in my cut-to-fit panels. I also drilled small holes in inconspicuous locations between the cabinets themselves so that I could run the wiring between cabinets to feed the next light in my chain. Because the supplied junction box is relatively small, I was also able to fit this under my cut-to-fit panels, thus, after the installation, all one sees is the actual lights with a bit (2-3 inches) of the interconnecting cable at each light's end.For maximum performance I recommend getting a high quality dimming switch. I have several on hand and found that a Lutron switch designed to work with LEDs did very well. There are several models, I picked the Contour Review for the 12, 18 and 24 inch units:I was looking for a direct wire unit for undercabinet lighting and came across these. I selected them based on price, color, and ability to direct wire.The units put out good light and work as designed. The casing is nice quality and looks good.Here are my complaints: Many of the newer plug in style LED undercabinet light fixtures are slimmer than their direct wire counterparts. The direct wire units are thicker because there needs to be space to make up the wiring connections inside of the fixture and sufficient thickness on the casing to accommodate the corresponding wire connector. So these fixtures have been made as thick as a direct wire, creating a disadvantage if you are using the plug in option.If you do need the direct wire option, you need to use the junction box that comes with the unit. The junction box is the same thickness and color as the fixture itself. It has knock-outs on 3 sides to allow you to connect the wiring and wiring connector. The size of the outlet box is approximately 3 inches long by 2 inches wide. At one end of the outlet box is a female pin connector to connect the junction box to the fixture. In addition to a junction box, supplied with each fixture is one 18 inch connector cable and one 1 inch connector adapter. The 1 inch connector can only be used to connect multiple fixtures end to end, which works well. The 1 inch connector adapter cannot be used to connect the junction box to the fixture even though the pin configuration matches. The height of the pin connector on the outlet box and fixtures are not the same, so it causes the connector to slant. I tried to use this configuration once and it damaged the connector on the junction box (fortunately I had some spares because I was connecting several end to end, and only needed one junction box for the whole chain). This requires that you use the 18 inch cable to connect the junction box to the first fixture. For me, this was a lot of unnecessary cable that had to be wrapped and secured out of the way.Overall, the lights work as designed and put out good light. It came with most of the screws I needed as well as a few straps with adhesive backing. I think I needed to find my own screws for the junction boxes. I am unhappy with the excess of parts and wiring that was required (junction box and connector cable) to direct wire these units.Also, if you are planning on using these units, whether direct wire or plug in, you need to accommodate for the connection into the fixture which is only available at the end of the fixture, which means that you will need an absolute minimum of 1 inch (which may be pushing it) extra clearance along the length of the cabinet.